Day 1: Departure from Podgorica
We planned a tour through Montenegro and rented a T3 campervan through Airbnb in Podgorica. After a one-day delay , we arrived yesterday at Radoje’s home, the owner. The first night, we were allowed to stay in the campervan named Jerry, in Radoje’s garden. We slept well; the van has a very comfortable mattress. We started the day with a nice breakfast at his home, after which we were given an explanation about Jerry. It’s an old van, and there are quite a few things to keep in mind. Luckily, we’re used to old vehicles, so it’s not all that complicated for Arjan. If you’ve never driven a classic car before, it will take some getting used to.
If you think it would be great to drive around Montenegro in a vintage van, check out Jerry here.
Once everything’s been explained—we can text Radoje during our trip with questions or tips—it’s time to get started. Radoje is a fantastic host. We drive out of the street and head towards Skadar Lake National Park. The van has a small kitchenette with a drawer that needs a hook to close. You guessed it: at the first bend, the drawer flies through the van. We forgot the hook. Luckily, everything’s still intact, but it’s a learning experience for us.
The most beautiful view is at Skadar Viewpoint
One of the most beautiful viewpoints of Lake Skadar is at the Skadar Viewpoint. If you type this point into Google Maps, you’ll be there in no time. The Panorama Route around Lake Skadar also starts here. Lake Skadar, or Skadarsko Jezero in Montenegrin, is the largest lake in Montenegro and even in the entire Balkans. Since 1983, it has been a national park, with two-thirds of it located in Montenegro and the other third in Albania. Two years ago, we swam in Lake Skadar in Albania. We drive the N10 and turn onto a very narrow road near Meterizi . It’s a kind of gravel path, and you really shouldn’t have oncoming traffic. Of course, we do, so it’s a baptism of fire for us. We just manage to pass. There’s no real parking space on this narrow road, but there is a kind of inlet. From this point, you have a view of the Horseshoe Bend of the Crnojevića River, which flows into Skadar Lake. (Copy the link below.)
The most beautiful view of Skadar Lake National Park
Copy the link below.
Pavlova Strana Viewpoint
If that sounds a bit exciting, you can drive the M2.3, which will take you to the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint . You can also enter this point into Google Maps. This is the official viewpoint. Here you can park at a restaurant and immediately enjoy a coffee with a breathtaking view. From the restaurant, you can then drive uphill around six bends to reach the Skadar Viewpoint.
Karuc
Karuč is a village on Lake Skadar where you can rent a boat or pedal boat. To reach Karuč, keep right from the Pavlova restaurant. Then follows a fairly long and narrow road. Along the way, you’ll have a stunning view of Lake Skadar. For that alone, I recommend visiting Karuč. Unfortunately, there are very few parking spaces in the village itself, so it’s always a bit doubtful whether you’ll find a parking spot. We were lucky, because there were two campers, a few cars, and someone just leaving.
From the parking lot, it’s about 50 meters to the beach. At the entrance to the path, there’s a sign for Restaurant Kapycei KPC . It’s only accessible by boat. When we arrive at the water’s edge, the boat is already waiting, and we’ll be transported across the water. A super fun way to get to a restaurant. If the boat isn’t ready, you can call them and they’ll come pick you up. The transport is free. Tel: +38269844123
The temperature has risen to 37 degrees Celsius, so we look for a shady spot for a drink. The restaurant is a great place to swim or take a boat trip. We spend the whole afternoon swimming and having lunch here. What a fantastic start to our tour.
Where are we going to stay?
Late in the afternoon, we get into our campervan, Jerry, and drive towards Rijeka Crnojevića Bridge, in the village of Rijeka Crnojevića . Here, Auto Camp Rijeka Crnojevića is located on the waterfront. Just before the bridge, we see a sign for “Camp,” so that’s probably it. It’s often a bit unclear where the entrance to a campsite is in Montenegro. Usually, you’ll first have to drive on a rough road full of rubble and trash, but don’t let that deter you. We’ve learned that by now. This campsite is beautifully spacious, you can choose your own spot, and there’s Wi-Fi, electricity, and a shower with hot water. Price per night: 2 adults, campervan, electricity €20.00 (2024)
View the Auto Camp Rijeka Crnojeviça website here
Skadar Lake from the water
From the viewpoint, we saw a boat sailing on the river, and Skadar Lake is most beautiful from the water. You can explore the lake by both kayak and boat. Boats regularly zip across the river near the campsite. They go really fast. The village of Rijeka Crnojevića is very small, but there are many companies offering boat trips. The owner of Auto Camp Rijeka Crnojevića also organizes boat trips on Skadar Lake. We were asked if we wanted to join the 1.5-hour Sunset Tour (€32.50 per person in 2024). We agreed and were able to board 10 minutes later! What a relaxing holiday!
There are seven of us in the boat, and we’re even going really fast at times. It’s still warm, and an evening boat trip is fantastic.
I don’t know what such a tour looks like during the day, but for me this Sunset Tour is a Must-Do.
It is an insanely beautiful trip across Skadar Lake.
Across from the campsite on the other side of the bridge is Restaurant Savina Luka, where you can enjoy delicious food at a reasonable price. When we return from the Sunset Tour, it’s thankfully still open, and we end our first day in Montenegro there.
Rijeka Crnojevića
The village of Rijeka Crnojevića is small but well worth a stroll. You’ll find numerous charming terraces along the waterfront. It’s frequented by locals who come to enjoy fresh fish.
Day 2: Skadar Lake National Park
We slept well in the van and made breakfast for the first time. There’s only one burner, so coffee and a boiled egg are difficult to make at the same time. The refrigerator is perfect and cools like a dream. Absolutely the best thing about camper Jerry. We took a refreshing morning dip in the river and got ready to head south along Skadar Lake to Virpazar.
Wine region of Montenegro
The most beautiful route along Skadar Lake runs from Rijeka Crnojevića to Virpazar. Simply follow the brown signs for Panorama Route 3B. Numerous small, family-run vineyards surround Skadar Lake. This area is therefore known as Montenegro’s wine region . The tastiest and most famous wine from Montenegro is made from the Vranac grape. You could visit a winery; there are plenty near Virpazar. Just be sure to choose one that uses this grape. We didn’t visit a winery, but we did drink a lot of Vranac wine. Tastes are a matter of taste, but I thought it was delicious.
Panoramic Parador
Just as we’re setting off, we drive past the first vineyards and arrive at another viewpoint, where the Crnojevića River stretches out like a horseshoe beneath us. There’s a sign along the road that says “Panorama.” You absolutely must stop here. The viewpoint is located behind a winery’s house. He charges €5.00 for admission, but if you buy a glass of wine or raki, it’s free. The winery is included for the tour. He’s an incredibly funny man who speaks excellent English. He’ll chatter away about the history of the vineyard and which famous people he’s hosted. Another must-do for him.
This Horseshoe Bend is also an absolute beauty.
You get a holiday snapshot as a gift, because he immediately asks for your phone to take pictures.
Virpazar
The Panorama Route to Virpazar is a narrow road where you constantly have Skadar Lake on your left as you drive from north to south. We stopped regularly along the way to take photos. What a beautiful area!
When we arrive in Virpazar, it’s bustling. The tourist village offers a huge number of boat tours. The main street is lined with vendors. You’ll also find plenty of terraces and a small market with souvenirs.
We look for a nice terrace for lunch and find a lovely spot behind the market. Not too crowded and nice in the shade. It’s 37 degrees Celsius again today. Jerry’s van doesn’t have air conditioning, but with the windows open, it’s perfectly bearable.
The Boat Restaurant in Virpazar is definitely a good choice for lunch. The menu offers delicious dishes, and we recommend the Caesar and Greek salads.
The most dangerous road in the world!
On the advice of “our” winegrower, after lunch we drive from Virpazar to Murici Beach, all the way south of Lake Skadar. The route is only suitable for experienced drivers with nerves of steel. We drive from north to south, which is the “safe” side, because you have the mountains on your right. If you drive from south to north, you have the abyss next to you, with guardrails and barriers nowhere near everywhere. The road is narrow, the route beautiful, but also incredibly exciting.
Every now and then we encounter oncoming traffic, and as drivers, you decide among yourselves who stops where. When a massive campervan approaches, I completely trust Arjan’s driving skills. After that, we’re completely ready for the program: The Most Dangerous Roads in the World. This is the most dangerous road we’ve ever driven in all our travels so far.
Muriçi Beach
To reach Muriçi Beach, we have to descend a long, winding road. In front of Muriçi Beach are all sorts of small islands, and the natural beach, Donji Murići, lies near the clear waters of Lake Skadar. It’s incredibly peaceful here, which isn’t surprising considering you have to cross a road like that first.
But we arrive safely and park Jerry in the Doljni murici parking lot . In the past, you could “wild camp” here, but that’s no longer possible. The restaurant owner charges €20.00 for the entire route along the beach for two people and a vehicle if you stay overnight. This includes a toilet and shower, nothing more. It’s a bit much for what you get. You come here for the beach, and it’s more than fantastic.
Tip: Bring water shoes when you go to Montenegro. You’ll find pebble beaches almost everywhere.
The seawater feels like stepping into a warm bath. With small children, this is perfect, because it’s not deep anywhere. We stay in the water for a long time. “In the evening, we eat at the fish restaurant near the parking lot, Carp from Skadar Lake, and it’s highly recommended.”
Tomorrow we travel further to the West Coast.
Author: Anja Schreurs
Taken from her blog goejereis.nl
Rent a Camper in Montenegro 