Durmitor National Park
The most beautiful route and sights
Nature lovers visiting Montenegro absolutely must n’t miss Durmitor National Park . It’s easily the most beautiful nature reserve in Montenegro and one of the most pristine natural areas in Europe . A must-see for several days. The park is so special that it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site .
Read my tips for Dormitor National Park here
Piva Canyon
We spent the night at Camp Vrbnica , a wonderful campsite nestled in the mountains of the Piva National Park. Piva Canyon isn’t very well-known, but it’s the perfect starting point for the Sedlo Pass hike through Durmitor National Park . The campsite owners offer a generous breakfast, and that’s what we’re starting today with. We were served a generous plate of fried eggs, cold cuts, cheese, and vegetables. Delicious. If you don’t have a tent or campervan, you can rent charming cabins here.
For more information, visit Camp Vrbnica.
From the campsite, a narrow road leads you along the canyon, and soon you’ll reach the Piva Canyon Viewpoint. The water is so blue. Unbelievable.
The area is beautiful for walking.
Along the Pivsko jezero , as the lake is officially called, you will find several beaches and you can take a tour with a tour boat.
Our plan for today is to drive the Sedlo Pass in Durmitor National Park, ending at Vrazje Jezero , one of the many lakes in the park. During our drive, we’ll stop at the Piva Viewpoint and continue towards Durmitor National Park. At some point, you’ll reach a junction where you can choose to drive north or take the Sedlo Pass (P14). We chose the Sedlo Pass, which connects the southern edge of Durmitor National Park with Žabljak. This is the lower half of the Durmitor Ring.
If you only have 1 day, start from Žabljak so you can begin and end the Durmitor Ring there
Durmitor National Park
Durmitor National Park in Montenegro is one of the most beautiful national parks in Europe. The country is an up-and-coming holiday destination, and that’s why you still have some sections of the park entirely to yourself during the summer months.
Where is Durmitor NP located?
Durmitor is a mountain range in northern Montenegro. The nature reserve covers almost 400 km² and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. The park consists of mountains, lakes, rivers, and dense forests. In winter, Durmitor is a popular ski resort. If possible, plan a few days for your road trip, as there’s plenty to see and do.
Sedlo Pass Durmitor
The distance from the Piva Canyon Viewpoint to Žabljak is about two hours along the south side of the Sedlo Pass. But you won’t make it in that time . Most of the sights on the Durmitor Ring Road are located along this P14, and you’ll frequently stop to take photos. It’s also a narrow road that dips and climbs along the way. If it’s busy, you’ll have to wait for others to pass. We drove the south side of the Sedlo Pass in about 4.5 hours. So definitely plan a full day for the entire loop. You’re essentially driving around the highest mountain in the national park, Bobotov Kuk.
The Sedlo Pass is one of the most beautiful panoramic routes in Europe! The first section of the Sedlo Pass is relatively flat, with expansive fields. Every now and then you see a shed or a few houses. Otherwise, there’s absolutely nothing. Not even oncoming traffic.We have the entire landscape to ourselves. Fantastic!
The more kilometers we travel, the higher the mountains become. Every bend offers a different view.
Stećci Durmitor
Our first stop is at Stećci Durmitor. These mysterious carved stone burial monuments—dating from the 12th to the 16th century—are found in northern Montenegro and neighboring Bosnia. There are two very important stećci sites in Durmitor National Park (both were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2016): the Bare Žugića Necropolis, with 300 stećci, and the Grčko Groblje (Greek Cemetery), with 49 stećci. Many of the stones at both sites are intricately decorated.
I haven’t counted how many stones are here, but there are quite a few. The position of these gravestones is also impressive, with the mountains in the background. I’m always amazed at how people centuries ago moved large stones without machinery. This time, I’m thinking again: How?
There’s a small café at this Stecci location, where we stop for a coffee. An hour later, our ride continues, and the scenery becomes increasingly beautiful. We even encounter wild horses at a small lake.
Prutash Grand view
Halfway up the Sedlo Pass stands a large skeleton. We’ve arrived at the Prutash Grand View . The summit of Prutaš rises an impressive 2,393 meters above sea level, and you’re rewarded with the most stunning panoramic views of Durmitor National Park from the top. We won’t be climbing this mountain, but you can take a nice hike here.
The magnificent mountain is framed like a painting by the wooden frame. A perfect spot for a holiday snapshot. It’s quiet now, but on busy days/times, a queue forms.
A little further along the trail, there are several benches at Prutash. A lovely spot for lunch. We’ve chosen a fantastic moment, because a shepherd is just coming down with a flock of sheep. Jerry is completely surrounded.
We’re halfway to the Sedlo Pass, so it’s high time to move on. The route is getting busier now, as many people are taking day trips from Zabjlak. The road has many hairpin bends, meaning we frequently have to wait to pass each other.
Want to take a tour like this yourself? Check out the options from Kotor on Getyourguide.
The Sedlena Greda has a very striking double top.
I don’t know how many photos we took on the last stretch, but it was a ridiculous number. The Sedlo Pass is a phenomenally beautiful mountain pass that you shouldn’t miss during your holiday in Montenegro.
Tips Seldo Pass:
– There are no gas stations anywhere, so make sure you have a full tank.
– There are few to no restaurants, so bring a packed picnic bag
Take your time on this fantastic panoramic route. You can’t drive faster than 30 km/h.
-Don’t forget to enjoy the ride.
Vrazje Jezero
You can choose to stay overnight in Zabljak, the largest town in Durmitor National Park, with shops, restaurants, hotels, and apartments. We’ll do some shopping there and then continue to Vrazje Jezero ( Devil’s Lake) . Vrazje Jezero is a lake located somewhat lower in the landscape. You descend to the water via a narrow road.
We find a sunny spot and immediately take a dip in the refreshing water. Be sure to wear water shoes here , as the bottom is muddy and soft. You sink a bit into the mud. A very strange feeling. It’s only when we walk around that we realize just how special Vrazje Jezero is.
Once you climb the hill and see the lake from above, the various shades of blue truly come into their own. It’s as if the lake is on another planet.
You can camp freely here with a camper or tent. We’re not the only ones who choose this option. Wild camping isn’t officially permitted in Montenegro, but it’s not a big deal.
Meanwhile, Jerry and I have moved to the other side of the lake because of the wind. With the hill behind us, it’s almost windless. At the end of the day, we’re also treated to an otherworldly sunset. What a special place this is.
Be sure to go there early in the evening for a walk up the hill. Personally, I consider it a must-see in Durmitor.
Sunrise Vrazje Jezero
A night at Lake Vrazje is fantastic. It’s utterly silent, and under a magnificent starry sky, it’s wonderful to sleep. We wake up early and start breakfast in the glorious sunshine.
When you’re in Durmitor National Park, a beautiful hike is a must. The park offers so many possibilities, from a simple stroll to climbing the highest mountain, Bobotov Kuk . Check out the options on Komoot.com .
I’m not much of a mountain goat, but I do want to hike in Durmtor National Park. The Tara Canyon hiking trail is a beautiful, relatively easy hike , and that’s on my schedule today, with Black Lake as my final destination. (Crno Jezero) The lake is one of the most beautiful in Durmitor National Park. But before we leave, we’ll have coffee at Auto Camp TEA HOUSE.
This campsite is just a few minutes’ drive from Vrazje Jezero. It’s a stunningly beautiful spot, so if you don’t fancy free camping, Auto Camp TEA HOUSE is a great alternative. The café is already open and serves excellent coffee. You’ll also find plenty of B&Bs along this road, so there’s something for everyone.
Then we drive for half an hour to the Tara Hiking Trail Parking lot.
Tara Canyon Hiking Trail
The Tara River Canyon is one of the highlights of Durmitor National Park. At a depth of 1,300 meters, it’s the second deepest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in the United States. The canyon has a total length of 82 kilometers. The Tara Canyon Hiking Trail offers several viewpoints overlooking the canyon.
About 5 km from Žabljak, there’s a little-known Tara Canyon hike that starts in the village of Podgora . If you Google “Tara Canyon Hiking Trail Parking,” you can easily drive there. You’ll hike a 6.1 km loop to three viewpoints overlooking the Tara Canyon: Soa, Brojila, and Tmorska Glavica . The road to the parking lot is narrow and bumpy, but it’s well-marked. A billboard at the starting point shows you the route.
The entire internet is full of reviews claiming the trail isn’t well-marked. The advice is to start at point 12, hike to point 8, and then back. There’s a good chance you’ll wander from point 8 to point 1. We’ll see, is our response. We’ll start at point 12, which immediately drops sharply. Here we go again. Nothing is flat in Montenegro.
Viewpoint 11: Tmorska Glavica
We soon arrive at the turnoff to viewpoint 11. We follow the path, and it immediately becomes much steeper. To say it’s an easy hike isn’t entirely accurate. Tmorska Glavica is a viewpoint that requires a bit more effort to reach. It’s quite a challenging climb of about 500 meters in the blazing sun. We are rewarded with a stunning view of the Tara Canyon.
Viewpoint 8: Brojila
The return path is smooth, and we continue our hike. Not every point is a viewpoint. After an hour, we reach viewpoint no. 8. A fairly easy path leads to this magnificent, panoramic Brojila viewpoint.
At this point, there’s a bench where you can rest for a bit. We’ve already encountered a few people who are unsure about continuing to points 7 and 6. Arjan decides to give it a try anyway, but returns after a while. There’s no clear path anymore, and certainly no numbering. End of story.
We also stick to the advice you read everywhere: Start at point 12, walk to point 8 and turn around.
Face to face with the Sand Adder
Just as we begin our return journey, we see a snake slithering across the path. Quite a peculiar sight, actually. We take a few steps closer so we can get a good look. Later, we read online that it was the venomous Sand Viper. This is considered the most dangerous and poisonous snake in Europe. A bite can even be fatal. And there we are, standing there, staring at it, our noses glued to the spot. It’s a good thing the creature was in a good mood. We’re quite speechless for a moment.
Black Lake ( Crno Jezero )
Black Lake, also known as Crno Jezero, is one of the most iconic sights in Durmitor National Park, and that’s our final destination for today. From the parking lot in Podgora , we drive 20 minutes to the Black Lake parking lot . The lot is packed, so it’s not going to work out. Next to the parking lot is a sign that says: Autocamp Ivan Do, but I’m not sure we want to stay there. It’s so chaotic and crowded that we decide to move on, looking for another campsite. The next one is Camp Kod Boce , recommended by Radoje, Jerry’s owner . I had this campsite on my list too, but the grounds are disappointing. A bit of a barren plain: we don’t find it very atmospheric. We got a map for Autocamp Razvrsje at the gas station in Zabljak , and this campsite happens to be around the corner from Camp Kod Boce. It takes a bit of searching. A steep road uphill between two houses leads us to the campsite entrance . We’re surprised! Beautiful spots among the trees, a large restroom, and a small bar. We were warmly welcomed with a drink. Another big plus is that you can walk from the campsite to Black Lake. That’s going to be it for today.
Autocamp Razvrsje
For an overnight stay for two people, electricity, Wi-Fi, and Jerry, we pay €15.00 per night. You can even light a fire in your own spot. A hot meal can be ordered for just ten euros. Unprecedentedly low prices.
As mentioned, there’s a path to Black Lake, which, according to the information board, takes 25 minutes . Once we’re settled in, we set off immediately. The first section is uphill, followed by an incredibly steep descent. Meter by meter, we descend further. It’s not going fast, and all I can think is: we have to go back! After half an hour, we still don’t see any water. Finally, we descend for 45 minutes before we see the water sparkling between the trees. Wow, what a picture!
We have learned in the meantime: Always double the time or km prescribed in Montenegro.
Montenegrins are natural optimists!
As soon as you arrive at the lake, you’re surrounded by so much natural beauty, with crystal-clear water reflecting the magnificent Durmitor Mountains. It’s indescribably beautiful. We immediately jump into the bright blue, refreshing water. It’s not cold at all.
At the lake, you’ll find a restaurant, a visitor center, and canoe rentals. If you’re here for a whole day, be sure to bring a picnic basket. There are plenty of benches and tables, and a walking path runs around the lake. A great plan for the next day.
As we dry off, we think about the climb back up. It’s going to be a tough one, and we’re sure we won’t make it before dusk. I wonder if there are any taxis. I inquire at the restaurant and get the number from the bartender for Pajo, a local taxi driver. Help is near. After a simple phone call, he tells us he’ll be there in fifteen minutes. Oh well: we still have to hurry to get to the parking lot in time. The parking lot is 700 meters away.
The ride to the campsite costs ten euros. That’s no problem. Pajo works for a taxi company, so if you need him, you can call.
Back at the campsite, we see we have the same neighbors as at Vrazje Jerzero. So funny. Montenegro is small, so you might run into the same people in different places. We chat for a bit, and these people have actually made the climb up to the campsite. They advise us to count on an hour and 45 minutes!
When we arrive at the bar, our plates of food arrive. Mom cooks her own meal and serves fish, potatoes, and a salad. The local Niksico beer completes the meal. The food is decent, but I have to admit, I wouldn’t recommend it. The food has already cooled down a bit, and the beer is a bit lukewarm. Luckily, we still have our own chips and wine, and with a campfire, it all works out perfectly.
Black Lake walk – Crno Jezero
Because we didn’t spend enough time at Crno Jezero yesterday, we’re adding an extra morning in Durmitor. Our breakfast is getting more luxurious every day! Cottage cheese, bread and toppings, an egg, coffee, milk, orange juice, and fruit. It’s ridiculous how much we can put on the table for the two of us . It always takes a while before we can actually get going.
After breakfast, we take our van to the Black Lake parking lot, and there’s plenty of room. The hourly rate is €3.00. We think two hours should be enough for a walk around the lake. Durmitor is a national park, and you pay an entrance fee of €5.00 per person at Black Lake . If you continue further into the park, your ticket is valid all day. So keep it safe . I think we entered a bit illegally yesterday.
From the parking lot, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the water. There are plenty of walks, but we’re going for the 3.5 km loop around the lake. The sign says it takes 1 hour and 15 minutes . Add half an hour to that, and a 15-minute walk back to the parking lot. We quickly realize that a cup of coffee at the restaurant afterward isn’t going to happen in two hours.
We’re so glad we came back this morning. The water is even bluer than yesterday. We have a fantastic view of the Osredak. I can’t describe it. It’s so incredibly beautiful!
Our hike starts from this point. If you’re looking for a moderately challenging hike in Durmitor, the Black Lake Trail is one of the best! The sandy path has some challenging sections with climbs and scrambling, but it’s certainly not difficult or strenuous. Along the way, you’ll have constant views of the stunning blue water. Be sure to start before 10 a.m. to avoid the busloads of tourists, who often arrive late in the morning.
Black Lake owes its name to the black pines, which have green needles and dark trunks (though not quite black). The water turns a brilliant blue under the influence of sunlight. It’s a glacial lake located at the foot of Međed Peak, at an altitude of 1,416 meters. The lake actually consists of two smaller lakes, Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero, literally meaning “Big Lake” and “Small Lake.” We hiked around both lakes, which is about 6 km in total from the parking lot and back. We barely made it in two hours :)
If you don’t have much time but still want to do one hike, do this one! A must-see in Durmitor National Park.
Tara Canyon Bridge
The Tara River Canyon runs largely through Durmitor National Park. We’ve already admired it from above during the Tara Canyon Hiking Trail. Another stunning viewpoint over the canyon is from the Tara Canyon Bridge. We drive from Crno Jezero in 45 minutes along the P5 to the bridge, officially known as the Đurđevića Tara Bridge. The P5 is a beautiful road with many hairpin bends, making it a slow and challenging drive.
If you’ve made a tight plan for your road trip through Montenegro, I recommend extending the travel time indicated by Google Maps by at least half an hour.
The viewpoint from Tara Bridge is a popular spot to see the canyon in all its glory. Luckily, we managed to find a parking spot just across the bridge at Tara Cafe. Once on the bridge itself, you get this incredibly beautiful view.
There are several companies near the bridge offering zipline tours over the Tara Gorge. For the daredevils among us: it looks spectacular, and you can simply join the queue. A ride at RedRock Zipline doesn’t take long, so you’ll be on your way in no time.
The bridge over the Tara Canyon, built in 1940, reaches 172 metres above the gorge, making it the highest bridge in Europe.
stock photo
Tara Canyon
Tara Canyon plunges from the mountain peaks to a depth of 1,300 meters and winds its way for 82 kilometers through Durmitor National Park. The canyon is beloved by Montenegrins and travelers from around the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1977. If you want to follow a section of the Tara River, the P4 Panorama Route from Tara Bridge to Mojkovac is a great idea.
Roadworks 2024-2025
The road is currently being worked on due to crumbling rocks. The work will last until sometime in 2025.
The section from Tara Bridge to the village of Dobrilovina is open and accessible. If you want to continue, the section between Dobrilovina and Mojkovac is open daily from 12:00 PM to 2:00 PM and in the evenings from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. If you want to complete this Panorama Route in one go, make sure you’re in Dobrilovina by 12:00 PM.
Between Tara Bridge and Dobrilovina, we hope to find a campsite where we can swim in the river. The incredibly scenic route first takes us to Guesthouse Kapija Kanjona. The hospitable owner allows us to camp there, and you can swim in the river. It’s a beautiful spot with a bar and restaurant. We find a spot and go for lunch.
Guesthouse Kapija Kanjona
The guesthouse offers rafting tours in the Tara Canyon, and you can stay overnight in cute wooden houses.
To reach the Tara River, we have to make a steep descent. It’s a grueling hike, and I’m getting a bit jumpy. You don’t want to be: I fall, and Arjan just manages to cushion my slide. I don’t think I’m enjoying it that much anymore. When the last part of the path is washed away, I’m done. We can’t reach the water. No matter how beautiful the location, we’re not staying here.
Eko Oaza-Tear of Europe
Our hopes are pinned on Camp Eko Oaza-Tear of Europe in Dobrilovina. We’re not sure we’ll be able to get that far, due to the closed road. There are plenty of B&Bs to stay overnight along this beautiful route, but no campsites. We’re in luck. The road closure begins right after the campsite, but the driveway is fine. The campsite lives up to its name, as it’s truly an oasis. Wonderful! We’re allowed to choose a spot on the large field.
The campsite offers cabins and a restaurant where we had a wonderful meal. They sell local products such as bread, eggs, vegetables, and homemade juices. We were offered these upon arrival, and I immediately ordered a liter. Delicious!
For a 1 night stay we pay €20.00 for electricity, wifi, 2 people and Jerry.
Author: Anja Schreurs
Taken from her blog goejereis.nl
Rent a Camper in Montenegro 